I Almost Ran Away to Prince Edward Island

Just two weeks ago I found myself on the windswept, wind-burnt, wind-whipped coasts of Canada’s Prince Edward Island. It’s the kind of landscape that looks as if it has been honed and sanded by the wild Atlantic winds for centuries. The journey to PEI began as a wistful idea, suggested by two of my friends (let’s call them S and K) in my grad school program. PEI is most well-known around the world as the place where L.M. Montgomery dreamed up her Anne of Green Gables series, among other writings that tell tales of her “enchanted coasts”: hence, the interest it holds for us literature enthusiasts. But, as we were to find out, the island has a lot more to it.

Photo credit: K

What started as a vague idea eventually grew into a concrete plan and then S, K, and myself found ourselves hopping into a rental car in Chicago to undertake the long (24 hour) drive to PEI (where we were joined by K’s friend L) and back. We broke the trip up into three days on the way there, and two on the way back. Though that meant many, many hours sitting in a car (including numerous singalongs to Disney soundtracks and frequent swearing at an uncooperative GPS), I am glad we chose to drive rather than fly to PEI. In this way, the sheer size of Canada’s landscape became more real to us, and its changes were able to be fully appreciated as we emerged out of the Ontario plains, made our way through the thick forests of Quebec, and eventually into the marshes of the Atlantic coast in New Brunswick.

PEI, itself, is an island where it is easy to fall into visions of myth and legend. The island is notorious for causing shipwrecks, and when the mist rises up from the sea and the wind howls through the firs it isn’t hard to see how the landscape and lore of the place grew L.M. Montgomery’s imagination. Tiny wooden (and functional) light houses beam all the way around the coast.

The island’s largest export, however, is slightly more down to earth: the humble potato. When we were there, it was the beginning of the low season and the whole island seemed to be slowing down and gently preparing itself for winter. Hay bales dotted fields that were turning golden in the sun and the beginning of the autumn reds (that would soon spread like wildfire across the North American continent) were just starting to show.

We, of course, had to make our way to Green Gables, the Avonlea tourist village, and a few other places of note from the Anne books. Though (as might be expected) slightly kitschy, they didn’t disappoint.

Visiting the house that inspired Anne of Green Gables

The original Green Gables house (which belonged to L.M. Montgomery’s cousins) was damaged by a fire several years ago, and has since been carefully restored to its original state.

Anne’s (fictional) bedroom

A garden growing near the foundations of L.M. Montgomery’s childhood home

The abundance of tiny bookshops dotted around the island made sure that we didn’t leave without adding to our reading lists as well.

Our four nights and three days on the island were also spent trying as many flavors of “Cow” ice cream as we could manage, eating incredibly fresh (and cheap!) seafood almost twice daily, and having chats with locals.

The seafood chowder at the Blue Mussel Cafe in North Rustico was a favourite.

There is a parochial quality about the island, as there is for many island communities. Those who were not born on PEI are permanently “come from away-ers” and a waitress told us how some islanders resent newcomers because of the lack of work that isn’t seasonal in the area. Many islanders, to support their families, must go away over winter to work in places like the Alberta oil fields. This doesn’t seem to have dampened the friendliness of the islanders, though, and we found that everywhere we went people we passed would always say hello and smile. In fact, we could soon tell the difference between tourists and locals: the locals always said hello!

Church in Avonlea

North Rustico, by the sea

We kept mainly to the central part of the island: Charlottetown, Cavendish beach, the little fishing town of North Rustico with its piles of lobster traps, and the pastel colored town of Summerside.

Cavendish Beach

Down by the dock in Summerside

If I return one day (and I would love to) I would definitely like to explore the more remote “wings” of the island on either side.

North Rustico

However, it was a day spent walking along the beaches of the PEI national park, and later watching K fly a kite over empty fields, that I felt the island come alive for me.

(photo credit: K)

I enjoy the bustle and the opportunities of Chicago, but I have been struggling to feel creative there as all the noise and movement crowds my head and pushes other things out. On PEI, sitting in the wind with my face turned towards the sea, I felt creative again. My thoughts felt clear, ideas felt like possibilities.

Further Details of our trip to PEI:

Where We Stayed: Charlottetown Backpacker’s Inn. We found this hostel spotless, centrally located, the beds comfortable, and the rooms quiet. They also provide free breakfast and potatoes!

Charlottetown Backpacker’s Inn

Favorite Places to Eat:

Cow ice cream (“Canada’s Best Ice cream”) and Anne’s Chocolates: various locations all over the island
Water Prince Corner Shop (Charlottetown): I had the BEST fish and chips of my life here. Which, from a New Zealander, is high praise. Book ahead, because it is very popular with both locals and visitors.
Island Favorites (Cavendish): This place is highly rated around the island and serves delicious (and affordable) lobster rolls and chowder.
Blue Mussel Cafe (North Rustico): A little more upmarket, but completely worth it. Try the chowder and lobster mac n’ cheese.
Gahan Brewery (Charlottetown): A cosy pub featuring local craft beers and music.
Brits Fish & Chips (Charlottetown): Lovely service, great fish, and spot-on sausages.
Buns & Things (Charlottetown): A very affordable bakery, perfect for stocking up on picnic fare on your way out of town.

Saving Money Getting On and Off the Island:

We used the (very long) bridge connecting the island to the mainland, because it was about $30 cheaper than using the ferry. You only have to pay (for either the bridge or the ferry) when you’re leaving the island.

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